The Rich and Turbulent History of Cyprus:
From Ancient Civilizations to Modern Independence

Cyprus is a truly remarkable island with a history spanning thousands of years, reaching back to ancient civilizations well before the Common Era. Its strategic location in the eastern Mediterranean has made it a crossroads of cultures and a target for empires throughout history.

Early Civilizations and Ancient Occupations

Over the centuries, Cyprus was occupied by several major powers. The Assyrians, Egyptians, and Persiansall left their mark on the island, shaping its culture and heritage. Each empire contributed to the development of Cyprus as a vital center for trade and culture in the ancient world.

The Byzantine and Venetian Eras

In 286 AD, Cyprus became part of the Eastern Roman Empire, also known as the Byzantine Empire. The island remained under Byzantine control for centuries, serving as an important Christian and administrative center.

Around 1473, Cyprus fell under Venetian rule. During this period, the famous walls of Nicosiawere constructed to protect the city from invasions. The Venetians invested heavily in fortifying key locations, including Famagusta and Kyrenia.

Ottoman Conquest and British Takeover

In 1539, the Ottoman Empire attacked and destroyed Limassol, prompting the Venetians to strengthen defenses across the island at Famagusta and Kyrenia. Despite their efforts, Cyprus was conquered by the Ottomans in 1571. The Ottomans ruled Cyprus for over three centuries, leaving a lasting cultural and architectural influence.

In 1878, control of Cyprus was transferred to the British Empire. Under British rule, the island developed modern infrastructure and institutions. Before independence, the population was approximately 77% Greek Cypriotand 18% Turkish Cypriot.

Independence and the Birth of the Republic of Cyprus

Cyprus gained independence in 1960 through the Zurich and London Agreements, officially proclaimed on 16 August 1960. However, the United Kingdom retained two Sovereign Base Areas—Akrotiriand Dhekelia—which remain British territories to this day, administered by the SBA police and customs authorities.

The Role of the United Nations and the Division of Cyprus

Since 1964, the United Nationshas maintained peacekeeping forces on the island, managing a Buffer Zone, also known as the Green Line, originally established in Nicosia to prevent further conflict.

Tensions escalated in 1974, when a conflict between Greek and Turkish forces led to the division of the island. Since then, four entities have controlled different regions of Cyprus:

• The Republic of Cyprus (Greek-controlled south)

• The Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (recognized only by Turkey)

• The UN Buffer Zone (Green Line)

• The British Sovereign Base Areas (Akrotiri and Dhekelia)

Modern Exploration: Understanding Cyprus Today

During the IBRG Expedition Cybex-2024, researchers visited and documented all four zones, exploring borders, landmarks, and historical markers. The expedition provided valuable insights into how centuries of history continue to shape modern Cyprus—politically, culturally, and geographically.

Thursday september 26th, I arrive in the evening at Larnaca airport, where I met Eva and Steen. We drive to Castelli hotel in Nicosia, check in and went down town where we met Barry and Jesper at bar
'Cheers' in Ledra street.

It's a nice reunion of good friends!

The only devided capital in the world, with a border between the Republic of Cyprus (RoC) and the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (TRNC), included a UN-controlled bufferzone, in between.

Friday september 27th, I meet Linda and Hans Peter, who were picked up by Steen at night.

After breakfast we leave for a walk through Nicosia. We start east of the checkpoint in Ledrastreet, near Paphos gate and end a long way west of it. The photos tell what we saw during the 20 km. that we walked.

Nicosia

Bordercrossing Ledrastreet

At around 11:00 AM, with temperatures already reaching 31°C, we arrived at Ledra Street, home to the famous pedestrian border crossing in Nicosia. Curious to experience both sides of the divided capital, we decided to cross into the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (TRNC) for a refreshing drink.

While preparing to cross the Ledra Street checkpoint, we noticed there was an option to receive a passport stamp from the TRNC authorities. However, since Northern Cyprus is not internationally recognized as an independent state, getting this stamp can potentially lead to complications at immigration checkpoints in other countries.

For travelers visiting Nicosia, it’s important to be aware of this detail before crossing the border, especially if you plan to travel internationally afterward.

Nicosia

After enjoying our refreshments on the northern side, we made our way back and crossed the border again into the Greek Cypriot side of Nicosia. The transition was quick, and within minutes we were back on Ledra Street, surrounded by its lively atmosphere.

Nicosia

The blue tractor

As we continued along Trikoupi Street (often referred to locally as Triton Street), we stumbled upon an unexpected highlight. Peering through a small opening in the wall, we caught sight of the famous “Blue Tractor” sign—an unusual but meaningful landmark within Nicosia’s Buffer Zone.

At that exact moment, a UN peacekeeper in a distinctive blue beret was conducting a routine check right near the Blue Tractor site. It was a striking reminder that this area is still actively monitored and remains one of the most unique divided city borders in the world.

The Story Behind the Blue Tractor

The Blue Tractor is more than just a curious sight—it carries a powerful piece of Nicosia’s history. After the division of Cyprus in 1974, both sides began using objects within the Buffer Zone as reference points to mark different sectors. One such landmark was a blue tractor left behind during the conflict.

For years, the tractor remained stranded in the Buffer Zone. After 11 years of negotiations, the original Greek Cypriot owner was finally granted permission to retrieve it—but under strict conditions. He had to enter the zone alone, could not use any additional vehicles, and had to drive the tractor out himself.

After 16 hours of effort, he successfully got the tractor running and drove it back to the Greek Cypriot side. To maintain the established boundary marker, the United Nations replaced the original with a symbolic substitute—a plastic blue tractor purchased from a local toy shop.

Today, the Blue Tractor stands as a small yet powerful symbol of division, resilience, and the complex history of Nicosia’s Green Line.

↓ © foto's and tekst left and down ©: Malcolm at [click]

A blue tractor (not the actual tractor) marking a sectorchange in the Turkish lines and the
6 plastic replacement (purchased red but sprayed blue).

Nicosia

Ledra Palace crossing

Zahra Sk crossing

After refreshing ourselves at the Castelli Hotel, we set out for an evening walk toward the Ledra Palace checkpoint, one of the key crossing points in Nicosia. We first reached the Republic of Cyprus (RoC) checkpoint on Markou Drakou Street, where we prepared to enter the Buffer Zone once again.

Kokkina (Greek: Κόκκινα,Turkish: Erenköy)  is a coastal TRNC pene-exclave surrounded by mountains with the Morphou Bay on its northern flank.

Because of the battle of Tillyria (1964), Kokkina is symbolic significance to Cypriots.

In 1976, all Kokkina inhabitants were transferred to Yialousa (Yeni Erenköy). Since than it's a TRNC military base and acces is not possible.

After making pictures of all we can see we drove to Κοιμητήριο Παχυάμμου
(Pachyammos Cemetery) also nearby the UN-bufferzone, where a Greek Cypriotic base is situated.

Here ends this part of the expedition and we had lunch in Pomos at Kanalli restaurant, at the harbour with a great view all over.

After lunch we went for a visit of the

Μοναστήρι Κύκκου (Kykkou Monastery) on HW E740.

From here we drove to the highest point of Cyprus on Mt. Olypus (1950 mtr.) were a British military observation post is situated.

The day ended with diner in 'The village pub & restaurant' in Kakopetria.

Pyla (Greek: Πύλα,Turkish: Geçit),

It is one of only four villages located within the United Nations Buffer Zone, the other three being Athienou, Troulloi and Deneia.

Pyla is located in the eastern part of the island, adjacent to the British Sovereign Base Area of Dhekelia. From a legal point of view, it is administered as all other areas controlled by the government of the Republic of Cyprus, but policed by UN peacekeepers.^[2]

The village is special in the respect that it is the only settlement in Cyprus still inhabited by both its original Greek Cypriot and Turkish Cypriot inhabitants, who live peacefully together in the village!

First stop we made at entering the bufferzone, was at the sign entering the bufferzone,second stop was in the middel of Pyla, near UN-post 129.

From Pyla we drove further by the mainroad. At the point leaving the bufferzone we parked the van at a house and investigated the bordermarker among the street. from here we had a great view on a TRNC observationpost.

A lady came along and start explaining us how the border is situated. We parked the car in front of her house, that acctually is devided by the border.

She also showed us a BM in her backyard and showed us the way to a former observation post uphill.

We thanked her and went up that hill. We found the former post and found, after inspecting that hill, over 11 BM's, almost all in 1 view.

From here we drove back and had lunch in restaurant 'Platia bar' in Pyla. I suggest to find the Vip's names at the picture of the wall (see down).

From here Steen brought us at the border of Pergamos. Unfortunally we had to say goodbye to HP and Linda. They had to work again and were brought to the airport by Steen.

Eva, Barry, Jesper and I first crossed the SBA border (out) and TRNC border in. Here we explored the border and found interesting BM's.

After Steen was back, we joined him and drove to Xylotymbou, an ToC enclave surrounded by the Eastern SBA of Dhekelia. Here we discovered a hidden BM.

From Xylotymbou we drove to the RoC powerplant enclave of Dhekelia and the RoC enclave, opposite of the UK HW B3.

Look at the map and see the small recess, at B3 in the middle. There is a high-voltage mast here. It is amazing to see that years before the mast was placed, the boundary determination already took this into account.

From here we moved on to the tripoint ESBA, RoC, Bufferzone (CYUKUN), on the map left, no. 4 (tnx Barry 4 the map, tnx Jesper for finding out).

Afterwards it was time to drive to Famagusta and searched for Novel centre point hotel, where we after, checking in and refreshment, joint each other to find a restaurant. We found it at only 600 mtr. walking in Gazimağusa, Arshit Cafe bar.

After a good meal we had a nightcap at the pool of the hotel.